My second cousin from Vancouver is doing a semester abroad at NUS and my dad had me email him recommendations from my trip as he plans his own travels for reading break. That reminded me that I had left you guys in Siem Reap…
The journey from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh was so eventful that it deserves an entry on its own.
We decided to take a boat rather than a bus to Phnom Penh, despite the boat ticket being slightly more expensive. 6 hours on a boat sounded more tolerable than 6 hours on a bus, even if we had to wake up at 5am to catch the daily 7am boat. It would be a more interesting mode of transport, with several floating villages marked out enroute.
The day started out on the wrong foot when the circuit in our room shorted. This at 5am, in Cambodia, where street lights are few and it is pitch dark outside. We ended up dressing and packing by the light of my handphone.
A little minivan picks us up from the hotel, and proceeds to drive in circles all around Siem Reap, picking up more passengers. I’m guessing that the order of pickup is the order in which the tickets were bought, since we backtrack more than a few times to different hotels. The minivan is packed to the gills even before we start heading towards the lake, our luggages strapped precariously to the roof, ourselves packed tighter than sardines within.
We get to the lake and a local snatches up our luggage and resolutely starts marching the 15 paces to one of two sampans that will take us out to the main boat. We have no choice but to follow him. He’s a smart guy, that one, placing our bags in the sampan and immediately holds out his hand for a tip. (I don’t remember exactly now, but he might have demanded $2, one for each bag)
Once everyone is settled, the 2 sampans start heading out towards deeper water. Only problem is that our boat has trouble steering. The steering mechanism is already held together by lashings of rope and raffia, and is literally at the end of its tether. The boatman employs the very sophisticated method of using his flip-flop to stabilise one of the pulleys, and somehow after 15 minutes and the 23rd attempt, it seems to work.
The main boat is surprisingly nice. It is spacious and there are cushioned seats within, though the European tourists typically head to the open deck to commence tanning. We do see some houseboats, lots of rice fields, kids playing along the banks and some water buffalo.

But, 2 hours into our already delayed 6 hour trip, the boat inexplicably comes to a stop and a little rowboat aligns itself to us. The two boatmen start conversing languidly in Khmer. Everyone just stands around in confusion. No instructions are given, it seems that they’re just waiting for people to get the idea that we should grab our luggage and transfer over to the rowboat. This takes a while, as based on our collective experience, I don’t think anyone would have been surprised if the boat had stopped just so the 2 boatmen could catch up and talk shop, before continuing on.
But eventually everyone decides to take the leap of faith and get onto the rowboat, with no idea what’s going on or where we’re headed. The rowboat takes us to the riverbank, where a pickup truck awaits and we are encouraged to put our luggage into it. The boy and I are already weirded out by the situation, and we view the truck with much suspicion as we hang on to our backpacks. Sure enough the pickup soon drives off with everyone else’s luggage, leaving us there by the riverbank, clueless as to what is going on.
After about 10 minutes, a small bus rumbles into view. We all get onto the bus. It is pieced together that we will continue the rest of the journey by bus as the water level of the lake is too low for boats, it being the dry season.
The bus breaks down a mere 20 minutes into the ride. It takes the driver about 30 minutes of clanging around the engine with a giant spanner, enough time for one of the European tourists to get a haircut at the local barber. Except for that piece of entertainment, it is an excruciatingly hot and humid 30 minutes.
The bus breaks down again another 10 minutes later. We’re able to get going soon but not for long, we break down again mere paces down the street. The novelty of travelling in a broken bus is wearing thin. And when we break down again for the 4th time, the driver calls it quits and soon a sleek monster of a Korean tour bus comes to our rescue and drives us the rest of the way to Phnom Penh in 1.5 hours.

All in all, it took us 10 hours to get to Phnom Penh from Siem Reap. And we still ended up taking the bus. Gaah.